Our historic streets - as seen through the eyes of a local graduate

Winchester is the kind of city that has always displayed a wealth of heritage, distinguished with its medieval links and celebration of culture. Which is the reason you need to take a look at the businesses and historic streets of the city. Newly opened Incognito, the cocktail, prosecco and gin parlour located on The Broadway, offers the city ‘old fashioned glamour’. This roaring 20’s inspired establishment provides an array of hats for the guests and boasts an excess of over 50 gins. With signature cocktails, vodka and rum to world whiskies, wine and a carefully selected gin menu, the diverse range caters to all tastes. Each signature cocktail follows the historical trend with an engaging tale and some adorned with botanical garnishes. The venue, open 7 days a week, provides live piano performances giving guests a taste of a Jazz Age experience. What is most notable about Incognito however, is the story of Chadwick Smithfield, the supposed cat and owner. His character’s story is intriguing. His anecdotes visible in his drinks menus, allowing the guests to become part of his narrative. The parlour claims to possess a 200 year old copy of William Hogarth’s ‘Beer Street’, a print in support of the 1751 Gin Act. Definitely worth a look on a visit there.

The Ivy Winchester Brasserie with its Parisian styled terrace and art deco influenced furnishings is another popular business. The modern British restaurant can be found on the historic High Street. The original Ivy was established in 1917 by Abel Giandellini and the brand has maintained a high standing amongst celebrities and more recently in media circles. For those wanting a glamorous photo for their Instagram pages this should be your first stop! Following suit, Greens Bar & Kitchen located on the significantly historic Jewry Street is a family run business. As one of the longest running bars in Winchester it is celebrating over 25 years of trade. The venue is popular for its food and active nightlife, with cuisine evenings every last Thursday of the month. The servers are attentive and one trip allows you to understand why this particular bar has outlasted and maintains its popularity amongst countless in the city.

Photograph by Maia

A few doors down from Greens visitors will find The Old Gaol House, now another pub in the Wetherspoons brand, the original building was once a debtor’s prison. Built in 1805, the grade II listed building shows an influence of G Dance’s 1770 Newgate Prison. The frontage most notably was designed by the architect George Moneypenny who was quite prominent in the 19 th century. The building was criticised as being too grandiose for prisoners but in the modern day seems somewhat simple when in comparison to the stylish Turtle Bay down the street. Warren & Son is yet another business that holds historical links to the city, the current location of the stationers on the High Street offers a look into the past. The building was once the local court house and home to the prison governor. A more interesting aspect are the traces of underground tunnels in the cellar of the building which would originally have led to the city prison on Jewry Street. For those wanting to further their knowledge on these long established Winchester businesses it is a great idea to book onto one of the talks on our future events.

Or better yet try your hand at some medieval board games at The Royal Oak, the pub that brands itself as the ‘oldest bar in England’. Once the residency of Queen Emma of Normandy and recently featured on Channel 4’s ‘Britain’s Most Historic Towns’. Historically frequented by royalists, guests are invited to visit from 11am until 12am most days.

Another beautiful photograph by Maia

When walking down Jewry Street you can see the architectural influence of Renaissance Italy and the Roman styled columns on the Corn Exchange so it is safe to assume that it has quite a heritage. But Jewry Street is most noteworthy for its Jewish history. Jews occupied in and around this street for centuries with synagogues being built close by. The Jews were famous for their financial acumen but were hated by certain members of the aristocracy. One distinguished Jewish woman, who has been explored in previous festival events, is Licoricia of Winchester. As a moneylender Licoricia made prominent name for herself amongst her community and across the country. Some have even gone as far as to name her the ‘Richest Jew in Winchester’. From records it is known that she lived on Jewry Street and as the most notable Jewish woman in the country many books have been published about her story. This medieval financer became famous for her somewhat strategic and advantageous marriages and overall smart thinking that brought her to wealth in 13th century England. Licoricia’s medieval business success saw her make important business contacts and even close relationships with the aristocracy most surprisingly King Henry III. This was until her untimely death in 1277 where she was found murdered alongside her Christian maid, Alice of Bickton.

Licoricia is also known for her marriage to David of Oxford in 1242 who some proclaim was in fact the ‘Richest Jew in England’ so together they made quite a formidable force. She had dealings with Simon de Montfort, 6 th Earl of Leicester alongside other wealthy clientele. Later in her life she was confined to the Tower of London whereby the king used this to ensure that a large sum of her late husband’s fortune could be taken and used to rebuild Westminster Abbey. With her later undertaking business ventures of her own on her return to Winchester.

Jewry Street, Winchester

There are many businesses and even more figures of Winchester that can be celebrated. But getting a better understanding of the heritage behind Winchester’s most famous streets is a great place to begin. Hopefully via Heritage Open Days we’re helping to prove that even in 2019 Winchester celebrates its heritage whether that be the thriving modern businesses, the architecture or giving a nod to the extraordinary people and history of Winchester.

Maia Pearce

Heritage Management Masters Student at the University of Winchester. Specialising in illicit antiquities, art & artefact forgeries in the UK and internationally.

5 things I love about Winchester

by Jenny Curtis, local student & HODs volunteer

Moving to Winchester was the scariest experience of my life. Scarier than results day. Scarier than starting a new school. Scarier than the first (and only) horror film I saw. The whole concept of moving away from home for the first time to an unfamiliar city was more than daunting. Not to mention the new responsibilities that come with living away from home: having to organise my own budget, lug washing to the launderette, and spend my evenings with strangers instead of family.

But nine months later the strangers are like family and Winchester feels more like home than my old town ever did. I take pride in showing my parents or friends from home around my city. There are still things I don’t know about the city and places I haven’t been, which is one of the many things I love about Winchester…

There's always . . . 

something new to discover, even in the familiar. Every season brings a new way at looking at the city, from snow-capped to embellished with blossom to scattered with crisp leaves to sweltering under the summer sun.

A few months back, I discovered one of my favourite places in Winchester. My flatmates had gone home for spring break, but I stayed at university, slaving over assignments. Looking for somewhere to take a rest from work and catch up on reading, I stumbled upon Dean Garnier Gardens. It was abandoned except for a skinny robin jumping across the grass. The brick walls were clothed in thick ivy, the sun was out, and it finally felt like spring. Even though the garden is open to the public, it felt like a space of my very own; it felt personal.

Some days, when I’ve finished my work and the weather is nice, I’ll spend the day wandering around the streets of Winchester, trying to find somewhere I’ve never been. Occasionally I walk one of my favourite routes and try to spot things I’ve never noticed before: the mismatching brickwork of a building, mayweed growing at the edge of a footpath, a grave that’s older than the USA. There’s always something new to discover, even in the familiar. Every season brings a new way at looking at the city, from snow-capped to embellished with blossom to scattered with crisp leaves to sweltering under the summer sun. For a city that dates back to before Roman times, Winchester never gets old.

“there’s something strange and fantastic about popping into a grade II listed building for something as mundane as toothpaste.”

— Jenny Curtis

Jenny's second favourite thing is the connection with history. History is everywhere in Winchester. From the clock in the High Street that dates back to the late 19th century, to the Buttercross just behind it dating back even further to the 15th century, and who could forget the astounding Winchester Cathedral built in the 11th century. At least twenty of the buildings along the High Street now occupied by coffee shops, phone companies, and banks are grade II listed. This overlap between history and modernity creates a beautiful mix, giving Winchester significant heritage without stagnation. It creates a city that’s everchanging and evolving, but never losing sight of its roots. Plus, there’s something strange and fantastic about popping into a grade II listed building for something as mundane as toothpaste.

View from West Hill, a personal favourite of Jenny's

Jenny's third favourite thing are the countryside views. As well as brimming with beautiful architecture, Winchester is home to fantastic countryside views. From the city, it’s only a short walk to the Water Meadows (a favourite route of Keats’), or a bit further to St Catherine’s Hill in what feels like the heart of the countryside. Even within the city, there are plenty of peaceful green spaces to relax in, giving you a sense of nature without breaking out your walking boots. A personal favourite of mine, and ultimate winner for convenience, is West Hill Cemetery which is less than five minutes from the University of Winchester. From the bench at the top of the graveyard, you get one of the absolute best views in all of Winchester over the fields, trees, and hills that surround the city. It’s almost impossible to remember what you were so stressed about when staring out over that countryside landscape.

A city with a town vibe

Although Winchester is technically a city, and was even the capital of England for a time, it still feels intimate,

Jenny's fourth love is the town vibe. Despite containing so many open spaces, Winchester is pleasantly compact. It is Schrodinger’s city – both airy and cosy simultaneously. As someone who finds the idea of driving about as appealing as a sandpaper massage, it’s a huge relief that you can walk pretty much everywhere in Winchester. Even the places that you can’t walk are easy to get to via public transport, so you can have a day out at the Science Centre and still feel good about your carbon footprint. Although Winchester is technically a city, and was even the capital of England for a time, it still feels intimate, unthreatening, and much more like a town but with all the perks that a city has to offer.

And finally 

No description of Winchester would be complete without mentioning the High Street

Jenny's wonderful tour of Winchester finishes with the High Street. No description of Winchester would be complete without mentioning the High Street. If the Cathedral is the heart of the city, the High Street is undoubtedly a fundamental artery. Before coming to Winchester, all the buskers I’d ever encounter could just about eek out an off-key rendition of ‘Wonderwall.’ Even now, I still can’t get over the skill of the buskers by the Buttercross or next to Debenhams who make the chore of lugging shopping back to my flat that much more enjoyable.

Market day back home was nothing special. It consisted of a rotund man shouting about his courgettes and a shifty looking guy selling DVDs that had ‘fallen off the back of a lorry.’ Winchester is another story entirely. Walking through the High Street on market day is always an exercise in self-restraint. I’ll struggle past the stalls and try not to blow my student loan on the delicious smelling food from all over the world – Greece, Germany, Thailand and more. Sometimes I’ll kid myself that I’m ‘just looking’ and I won’t buy anything. But, as I have the breaking strain of a soggy Kit-Kat, on those occasions I rarely walk away without chowing down on an arancini or some other delicious street food. The Christmas market nearly bankrupted me I can tell you.

Of course, this list could easily be three times as long, as every day I learn something new about the city that just makes it more appealing. Know of any hidden gems or personal favourites about Winch that I haven’t mentioned? Feel free to share them down in the comments and help other people get to know this fantastic city!

Photo Credits - Jenny took the fabulous shot of the view from West Hill, and the remaining ones were taken by Becky Brown.